The last of the Phoenix Islands "Greatest Hits" highlights.

#10: Future PIPA Expeditions

Okay, I admit it. I have been stalling on this last post. The truth: I have no idea how to end this blog. How do you put a neat, satisfactory end on something so wild? Anything I write will be anticlimactic. With this in mind, let me simply offer you some stats to let you know how where things stand as of this very moment:

...15 Expedition members, now spread all over the globe
...15 amazing NAI'A Crew members (based in Fiji)
...100+ bags of luggage transported to and fro
...400+ SCUBA dives completed on the 2009 expedition
...4 blue water dives
...3 ROV excursions
...11 days on-site in PIPA
...11+ days in transit (5 in very rough seas)
...500+ species of fish documented
...200+ invertebrate species documented
...3+ scientific publications in progress
...5000+ photos of PIPA (see previous posts for highlights)
...65 blog posts
...12,000+ blog readers (Thank you!)
..........408,250 km2 of protected ocean (PIPA remains the world's largest MPA)

And the experience ..... priceless.

Thank you all so much for reading and journeying with us. Special thank you to Jeff Ives (the New England Aquarium blog guru) for all of his support. Special thank you to all of the fellow bloggers who posted, students who participated, and readers who commented. To those silent readers - thank you - we hope you had as much fun reading as we did writing. It was a blast. I still don't know how to end this blog (mea culpa), so I'll leave you with some comforting thoughts:

1. The next PIPA expedition is slated for 2011. Stay tuned, and we'll keep updating this blog to let you know exactly when.

2. We'll post 2009-PIPA related press, publications, lectures, and outreach efforts here on this blog. These will include a book, a National Geographic article, a movie, scientific publications, and press.

3. This blog will not disappear (it will remain on the Aquarium website), so you can re-visit the 2009 expedition at any time. With 65 posts to go through, it will certainly keep you busy to go back to the beginning! Plus, the New England Aquarium is never idle - there are always amazing adventures all over the globe (including at 1 Central Wharf, Boston!), so check out the other blogs to see what's going on.

So, thank you! And don't forget to live blue.

Happy holidays,

-Randi



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Labels: next steps, Phoenix Islands, Randi Rotjan, Transport, wrap-up

Before we get to the PIPA 2009 Expedition Greatest Hits, the expedition needs to officially end. What's the official end? It's a tough call. The moment we left the Phoenix Islands? The moment we got off the boat? The moment we all left Fiji? The moment we all arrived home? The moment when all of the scientific publications, National Geographic stories, videos, blogs, and medical articles have been published? Where should we draw the line?


View from my airplane window of one of the Fijian Islands (Photo: R. Rotjan)

Well, I decided to draw the line when we all left Fiji. Though the responsibilities of the expedition members are far from over (and this blog will continue on for a while longer), the full team is no longer together. As I mentioned previously, David and Tukabu and Tuake are together in Tarawa presenting the initial findings of the expedition. The rest of us are preparing to leave Fiji to go home or onwards to other exciting locales. But before the next stage (whatever it may be), we must all encounter one final expedition-related excursion... the airport.

You've probably been through this--check in 2 hours before an international flight. Pack the bags yourself. Limit yourself to 1 carry-on and a small personal item. No liquids. Usually 2 bags per person. yadda yadda. It's a different experience in bulk, let me tell you! We all flew separately to Fiji in the beginning, but the bulk of us left together (9 in total) on the same plane. For those 9 members, check-in lasted almost 2 hours and included 67 bags worth of hassle. That's right, 67 bags for 9 people!


Airport shenanigans with 67 bags and 9 people--every bag visible is ours! (Photos by R. Rotjan)

Totaling it all up, that means an average of 7-8 bags per person. Given that there were 15 expedition members, we had over 100 bags total between us all... not counting the three giant crates that were shipped to and fro, containing the hyperbaric chamber (see Greg's earlier post for photos of the chamber, and an early post by Brian to see some of the bags in the gear room onboard). Larry put it best - when I mentioned that I would title this blog "Leaving on a jet plane," he suggested an alternative: "Filling up a jet plane!" Because I used the radio call letters WPIPA in my last post, I stayed true to the original title (Sorry, Larry).


1/6 of our luggage tags (Photos by R. Rotjan)

Bag trouble aside, we all managed to leave Fiji successfully, avoid any Tsunami issues (though we are all deeply saddened and concerned about Samoa and other relevant areas), and all of us have the Phoenix Islands Protected Area (PIPA) on the brain.

I can't speak for my colleagues, but on the plane, I read a novel by J. Maarten Troost and I think he did an incredible job of describing Kiribati as a country (however, having never been to Tarawa, I cannot comment on the accuracy of the rest of the book). Nonetheless, his words are so apt that I feel compelled to share them with you; I have taken some liberties (in [ ], and some deletions represented by an ellipsis), which I hope Troost will forgive if he ever reads this:

"The word Kiribati, pronounced kir-ee-bas on account of the missionaries being stingy with the letters they used to transcribe the local language, is derived from the word Gilberts, which is the name of one of the three island groups that comprise this improbable nation. Located just a notch above the equator and 5000 miles from anywhere, Tarawa is the capital of this country of 33 atolls scattered over an ocean area as large as the continental United States.


Kiribati shown in relation to Australia (canterburypasifika.org)

"The total landmass of these islands is about 300 square miles, roughly the size of the greater Baltimore metropolitan area, though I believe it halves at high tide. Most of Kiribati's land mass is found on Kiritimati Island (Christmas Island), several thousand miles away from Tarawa. What remains is not much [but includes the Phoenix Islands].


Satellite image of the Gilbert Islands (NASA)

"To picture Kiribati, imagine that the continental United States were to conveniently disappear, leaving only Baltimore and a vast swath of very blue ocean in it's place. Now, chop up Baltimore into 33 pieces, place a neighborhood where Maine used to be, another where California once was, and so on, until you have 33 pieces of Baltimore, dispersed in such a way so as to ensure that [99%] of Baltimorians will never attend an Orioles game again [due to travel constraints]. Now, take away [most Western conveniences]. Replace [Northeastern U.S. shingled roofs] with thatch. Flatten all land into a uniform 2 feet above sea level. Toy with islands by melting polar ice caps. Add palm trees. Sprinkle with [remarkable musical talent and amazing dedication to PIPA]. Isolate and bake at a constant temperature of 100 degrees Farenheit. The result is the Republic of Kiribati."

View from airplane window of the Pacific Ocean with no land in sight (Photos: R. Rotjan)

These were the thoughts as I had in my mind as I flew over Fiji and looked at a tiny, tiny portion of the vast Central Pacific on my way to New Zealand (where I will be for the next week). As I looked down on the big blue from ~30,000 ft, I was again struck with the theme of the trip: there's a lot of ocean out there. It's giant and blue and amazing and fragile, and there is still so much to explore.

By the time I post this blog, every single one of the expedition members will have reached our next destination successfully. And so, I declare the expedition officially over. But, I also officially declare the next challenge: for all of us (including you!) to contemplate the sheer size, mass, area (pick a metric, any metric!) of the world's oceans, and think about what you can do to explore and protect them. In other words, live blue.


The 2009 PIPA Expedition Crew; officially signing off. (Photo: Cap'n Jonathan).

Stay tuned for the greatest hits and the scientific wrap-up (coming over the next several weeks).

But since I've now left Fiji on a very full jet plane, over and out from the PIPA 2009 Expedition.

-Randi-


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Labels: conservation, Fiji, Kiribati, Phoenix Islands, Randi Rotjan, Transport

Bula! (Hello in Fijian) It seems like it was only yesterday that we said "Bula!" to the NAI'A. It's strange to think that today we said goodbye.

This has been an incredible expedition. We've written a lot about the science, but the people are also deserving of mention. Without a doubt, this was an unusually smooth mix of personalities. Everyone (team and crew alike) worked extremely hard, and developed deep mutual respect and admiration for each other. With so many different expedition missions, and so many boat-related details, it's a miracle that so much was accomplished, with so much harmony.


Let me paint a picture for you. We were on a pretty small boat, with very few (if any) opportunities to get a moment alone. We shared our lives with ~30 people (expedition members + crew), with little/no contact with friends and family. Truly, despite all of the blogging, email was a rarity and phone an impossibility in the remote Phoenix Islands. Contact was limited to short blog and photo uplinks (readers, I'm just letting you know how important you are!).

At any rate, we had to eat, sleep, and work together in a very small space for a pretty long time. We survived rough seas with respect (if not dignity), and learned to help each other with the intellectual and physical challenges of long field days. No yelling, no screaming, no drama. In fact, as if to celebrate our ship-zen, the seas became glassy calm and we were treated to a beautiful last sunset onboard with a Fijian mountain backdrop.



Let me introduce you to some of onboard characters and give you a glimpse into our last night. A warm vinaka vakelevu (thank you in Fijian) to the NAI'A staff for all of their help, support, music, and friendship. You helped to make this expedition extraordinary.





In Fiji and Kiribati (and elsewhere), it is customary to celebrate good times with Kava. Kava root is an ancient crop of the western Pacific, and the NAI'A crew treated us to a Kava sing-along party our last night. Kava drink is prepared in a bowl (shown below), and served in coconut shells.


Kava preparation (left); "fish guys" (right) celebrate their successful data collection with some Kava and some fish tales.

Nataune ni gunuyaqona? (Is it Kava time?)




Ni Sa Moce, NAI'A! we'll see you again soon!

However, our story is not yet done. Stay tuned for our brief Fijian adventures, our travels home, and our trip reflections. Because, it ain't over 'til it's over.

-Randi-

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Labels: Fiji, NAI'A, Randi Rotjan, Transport

It's official--we are sailing back to Fiji--another long 5.5 day voyage. It's interesting to have our time on/in the Phoenix Islands Protected Area bookended by long sea voyages. Though our trip out was extremely rough (20 ft seas at times!), this time I'm happy to report that the seas are relatively calm, the mood is cheerful, and seasickness is but a distant, 3-week old memory. With all of this good luck, what are we doing with our time?

Believe it or not, we're still working. In between a few moments of sunset-watching and toasting, we've all been busy entering and analyzing our data, writing first drafts of a report (to be submitted to the Kiribati government, among others), and talking about the details of our experience--just trying to absorb it all and figure out what our main findings were, and what we'd like to pursue next time. In other words, we're trying to wrap this trip up (hence the burrito).

(Photos: Randi Rotjan)

So, where are we so far? My colleagues and I have been discussing the remarkable fish density and biomass, the encouraging signs of new coral recruits and juveniles, and the importance of local versus global effects as we've been blogging about all along (David just posted his wrap-up). But here's an additional thought: the Phoenix Islands are a living laboratory, a place where we can study ecological, behavioral, and physiological processes on reefs and among reef organisms in their natural context. In other words, this is a place to study nature where nature still (mostly) calls the shots, instead of a place where humans (mostly) call the shots.

Here's some filling for that burrito: how many places are there left in the world where nature (mostly) calls the shots, and is it too late to save them? I remain optimistic that the fate of the world's coral reefs is not yet sealed. We've seen remarkable re-growth, both swift and systematic, that fuels my optimism.

A quick diversion: HAPPY BIRTHDAY to Brian Skerry and Kate Madin!


As we approach Fiji (we'll be arriving in port tomorrow morning), this blog will take on a new dimension. Thus far, we've been posting in real-time, giving you our thoughts as we have them. However, thoughts improve with time. As our ideas simmer, sizzle, and grow, we'll be sure to give you our refined view of the trip. The trip has been bookended, but we are left with a lot of possible burrito fillings and toppings ... and we'll continue to think about how to wrap it all up... here on this blog.

-Randi-

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Labels: conservation, coral reef health, Fiji, NAI'A, Randi Rotjan, Transport

September 13, 2009--After nearly six days of sailing we reached Nikumaroro Island around 10:00 a.m. today. The tiny spec of land turned into a deserted tropical island clustered with palm trees the closer we approached. I had planned to use the days in transit to unpack and assemble all of my photo equipment, but the rough seas didn't allow for this. So, I spent the first several hours today doing this along with charging batteries and prepping my dive gear. I was able to get everything ready in time for a dive in the early afternoon.


Brian Skerry in the camera room getting ready to begin the process of unpacking and assembling photo gear (Photo by R. Rotjan)

I dove on the leeward side of Nikumaroro and from the moment I jumped in, two things were evident. First there seemed to be a lot of fish. Second, the corals here were in rough shape. As I mentioned in my previous post, coral scientist David Obura was here in 2005 and recorded substantial coral bleaching and dead corals due to warming sea temperatures. Our hope was that in the four years since, new coral growth had taken place, however we saw very little of this.

I ended up spending about three hours in the water today, making two dives and concentrated mostly on photographing fish. There were some huge schools of surgeonfish in the surf zone, where I often love to work. The crashing waves create backlighting that can make for a beautiful picture, provided you can hold your position and not get slammed into a rock or coral head!


Long face emperor fish with jack trevally on Nikumaroro Island (Photo: Brian Skerry)

Nikumaroro Islands is the place that many believe Amelia Earhart landed on her historic attempt of a round the world flight. So, while fish were foremost in my thoughts today, I must admit that somewhere in the back of my mind I secretly desired to swim over an underwater ridge to find the wreckage of a Lockheed Electra lying amongst the coral. Didn't happen though. I did swim amongst the wreckage of a ship that grounded here, but no aircraft debris today.

Tomorrow I am planning an early morning dive on the windward side of the island where I hope the reef will have fared better from the stressing event of four years ago.

-Brian Skerry

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Labels: Brian Skerry, coral bleaching, Nikumaroro, Transport

First, let me thank Greg Stone, Alan Dynner, Brian Skerry, and David Obura for their recent contributions (you can read them by clicking the links next to each author's name at right). We are so lucky to be able to hear directly from them (as well as some other expedition members) as the trip progresses.


Shorebirds in the Phoenix Islands during the 2002 Phoenix Islands expedition (Photo: Greg Stone)

Personally, I have also been plagued with a fairly phenomenal case of seasickness, but I think that the worst is over. After days of fighting the seas, the winds calmed enough for most of us to head onto the deck to look around. What can we see? BLUE. Nothing but blue and white. Blue skies with white clouds, blue seas with white waves. No land visible in any direction. No other boats. And 2 or 3 small terns, making their way to or from the Phoenix Islands, or so we think.


Sunset with the Phoenix Islands on the horizon in 2002 (Photo: Greg Stone)

Never one to resist a pun, I love the idea that the tide is terning if the seas are calm enough for terns, then they are calm enough for us. On this lonely stretch of ocean between Fiji and the Phoenix Islands (~1000 nautical miles!), it's nice to see some life out here. Surprisingly, we have not observed much marine life yet on this long voyage, save for the hundreds of flying fish that leap from our wake. But, it's only a matter of time until there is so much marine life that we'll be struggling to keep up with it.


For reference: A pink-wing flying fish (Photo: NOAA)

And we're terning the corner! Shortly, we'll be reporting back about waters teeming with fishes, invertebrates, and plant life. Today, we'll be assembling our dive gear and prepping to arrive. Then we dive!

-Randi

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Labels: flying fish, NAI'A, Randi Rotjan, tern, Transport

400 miles north of Fiji, 30 knot winds, 12 foot seas, meals served in bowls, waves and spray continuously wash over the starboard side of the vessel, a challenge to take a shower, walk or even sleep as you have to compensate for your body being thrown this way and that by the erratic motion of the sea and vessel. A few people are seasick and lying mostly in their bunks; others sit where they can, lying where they can, and eat when and what they can. We are passing through the inter-tropical convergence zone.
___

I wrote the above passage a couple days ago. Now we are within 24 hours of our first Phoenix Island study site, Nikumaroro. The wind has died out considerably as we are nearing the equator, an area that is typically calmer. Northern and southern hemisphere weather patterns are separated by the equatorial region of Earth. Storms in the north spin counterclockwise, and storms in the south spin clockwise, but the storms never cross the equator, a natural boundary between these two halves of the earth.


Team members on deck during the previous expedition to the Phoenix Islands (Photo: Cat Holloway)

This long transit across this vast ocean, illustrates how isolated the Phoenix Islands are. And we want to make the most of the precious time we will have in the islands, to check the status of this large marine ecosystem that the government of Kiribati has protected. Now that the ocean has settled down, we are getting our science gear out and assembled--sampling jars, cameras, blue water diving rigs. There is a container of liquid nitrogen strapped to a post outside my cabin that will freeze biological samples. Every free place on the boat has either safety or dive gear.


A Remote Operated Vehicle (ROV) in use during the previous Phoenix Islands expedition (Photo by Cat Holloway)

Today is also a day of safety briefings. It is one thing to pack, plan assemble a diverse group of scientists and travel to the far reaches of Earth to conduct research. Once we get there, we have to conduct our work underwater, which adds another level of complexity to the tasks at hand.


Hyperbaric Chamber tested on NAI'A during the current expedition (Photo: Greg Stone)

Our number one priority is safety and we have brought a variety of devices and procedures to ensure that we dive and work at this remote location as safely as possible. Dr. Craig Cook is the expedition medical officer. Craig has the usual array of emergency medical supplies and medicines, but he has also brought a hyperbaric chamber and emergency locating devices. Craig is an expert in diving emergency medicine and we assembled the chamber today for testing.

-Gregory Stone, PIPA Expedition Leader

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Labels: gear, Gregory Stone, hyperbaric chamber, NAI'A, safety, Transport