Saturday, November 15, 2008
Punta Arenas, Chile
Two days of traveling has taken me from the
southern islands of Tierra del Fuego back to the continent of South America and the city of Punta Arenas. Every minute of the last 15 days has been one incredible experience after another. I have seen birds that many die hard birdwatchers dream of seeing. I have seen dolphins porpoising at the bow of the boat, so close that I could have touched them. I
left my mark on a desolated landscape. I have seen hundreds of
albatross soaring in the heavy winds. A skua tried to
steal my gloves. I have been rained on, snowed on, hailed on, and in seas so rough you had to tie up in the stays to keep from going overboard. I had
rockhopper penguins at my feet and my boots sucked into the mud and guano past my knees.
This trip has taught me a lot about penguins, other seabirds and the nature of field work in such remote locations. In the two weeks at sea I learned how to identify many of Chile's seabirds, how to count penguins and survive on a small boat in the southern ocean. I hope that the information collected during this research trip will help to protect southern rockhopper penguin populations, and I know that I will never forget my experiences with these amazing birds!
To learn more about penguins and get your chance to see them up close and personal, visit the New England Aquarium. Our
penguin exhibit has over 80 birds of 4 different species, including the southern rockhopper penguin! If you are interested in helping penguin conservation efforts find out how you can help by
sponsoring one of our animals. And if you think that working with penguins sounds like a job for you, check out our exciting
volunteer opportunities!
Thanks for following along with me on this unforgettable experience!

Labels: Caitlin, conclusion, return home
Thursday, November 13, 2008
Isla Caroline, Chile
15 minutes. That was how long we had sunny, calm weather.
We had started out towards the open waters of the ocean side of
Isla Caroline, before the winds and hail forced us to turn back. A narrow passage through the island was our last option to get to the open ocean facing side of Caroline. About an hour later we were finally there, and the small islands covered in tussock grass looked ideal for southern rockhopper penguins.

Unfortunately, the weather continued to be uncooperative and we were not able to make any landings. We stood on deck with binoculars searching for signs of rockhopper colonies, but nothing definite was seen. Rockhopper penguins were reported in these waters almost 100 years ago by explorers taking refuge at Isla Caroline from a storm at Isla Ildefonso.
Could it be that the southern rockhopper penguin has died out or left this area of Chile? Our boat crew tells us that over the years there has been heavy fishing in this area, an insight that may explain the absence of penguins around Isla Caroline. Over fishing is a major problem facing all species of penguins and has taken a serious toll on their overall population numbers.
The weather starts to turn again and we must leave the exposed, open ocean side of Isla Caroline. Today is the last day for us to search for rockhoppers and we must make our way back to port in Punta Arenas. Although we are disappointed that we were not able to visit all the islands and explore as many penguin colonies we had hoped, such is the nature of working in the field. The wind and rain do not always cooperate, and sometimes the snow and hail make matter worse.
You may get 15 minutes of beautiful sunshine, and then spend the rest of the day shrouded in fog. The only thing you can do is use every moment available to explore and learn about the environment around you, whether it be the penguins you came thousands of miles to study or the gulls nesting right outside of town.
Labels: Isla Caroline, overfishing, rockhopper penguins
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
Isla Waterman, ChileCrossing through the open seas are difficult. This morning we left Isla Waterman and tried to reach
Isla Caroline through the open ocean waters. Huge swells rocked the boat side to side and back and forth. I watched the pendulum of the gauge that measures the angle of boat pitch swing past 40 degrees! Eventually we had to turn back and instead tried to reach the ocean side of Isla Caroline by first crossing through the narrow channel that ran behind it. Along the way we looked for any signs of southern rockhopper penguins.


Some of the smaller islands surrounding the back of Isla Caroline had similar characteristics to Isla Terhalten and Sesambre--tall, jagged cliffs topped with dense tussock grass, and the open ocean access rockhoppers seem to prefer. As the failing weather would not allow any landings on these islands for further investigation, the best we could do was scan the islands and water with binoculars, but no rockhoppers were seen. Hugo found a small cove for the
Chonos to anchor in for the night. Tomorrow we will have one last chance to reach and explore the ocean-facing side of Isla Caroline.
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Labels: Isla Caroline, Isla Terhalten
Tuesday, November 11, 2008
The southern branch of the Beagle ChannelThis morning the weather cleared enough for us to leave Isla Gordon and head back into the southern branch of the
Beagle Channel. The black browed albatross and giant petrels took advantage of the heavy winds and effortlessly soared over the waves. Both birds seem very aloof and neither species came close enough to the boat to get a good photo. On the other hand, the Chilean skua flying with the albatrosses, seemed to have no fear of the boat or the people standing on it.

Skuas are a larger relative of the gull family. They are an intelligent and aggressive predatory bird, praying on the eggs and chicks of many bird species, including rockhopper penguins, and are also known to attack other birds in order to bully them into regurgitating their freshly caught meal. This large Chilean skua decided to land on our boat to see if we had anything of interest.

In the video below you can see the skua after it has landed on the bow of the zodiac. Shortly after, something catches its eye and it takes off towards the video camera. The camera then goes out of focus and what you don't see in the commotion is me trying to keep the skua from stealing the glove off of my left hand. Apparently that's what caught his eye and I guess he thought it might make a nice addition to his nest! Following the altercation the skua hovered above my video camera for a while, his black eyes thoroughly checking me over for anything else he might like.
This was an incredible experience for me. Despite what you may think about their aggressive nature, every animal holds an important place in the natural order of things. The Chilean skua is a beautiful bird with a striking cinnamon colored chest and bold, white markings on the tips of its wings. With this unique experience the skua has become an unexpected favorite for me.

Labels: Beagle Channel, glove, skua
Monday, November 10, 2008
Isla Gordon, Chile
This morning we were relieved to wake up to the beeps and grumbling of the
Chonos's engine starting. The winds had finally calmed and the harbor master had given the okay for boats to leave Puerto Williams.

Today we were able to make it through to the southern branch of the Beagle channel before another storm again forced us into hiding. The protected cove on Isla Gordon that will be our home for the night is surrounded by waterfalls and across the entrance of the channel you can just make out a glacier through the rainy darkness.
Our hopes of making Isla Caroline in the near future are fading. As frustrating as this waiting can be it is the nature of research in the beautiful, harsh and unpredictable fjords of southern Chile.
Labels: glaciers, Isla Caroline, Puerto Williams
Sunday, November 9, 2008
Puerto Williams, ChileLast night after leaving Isla Terhalten we headed back into the Beagle Channel. The plan was to get as far through the channel as possible in order to make our next destination, Isla Caroline, in the next few days. Isla Caroline is an open ocean-facing island near the southern most part of Tierra del Fuego. Historical records show that explorers working on Isla Ildefonso in 1910 took shelter from a storm at Caroline and reported seeing southern rockhopper penguins.
Feather Link hopes to find and census these penguins. Unfortunately for us, a storm also forced us to take shelter and we anchored in
Puerto Williams for the night. By this morning the high winds have not shown any signs of stopping so the harbor master closed the port. No boats are allowed to leave as the weather is too dangerous. Not content to sit at the dock, a few of us braved the winds and walked over to a gull colony located on a sandy spit of land alongside the channel. The winds were so strong that even the gulls had difficulty flying into them, and instead just hovered directly over the ground.

The colony was mostly nesting kelp gulls,

but there were a few pairs of dolphin gulls,

Magellanic oystercatchers,

and a pair of upland geese.
Let's hope the weather clears for tomorrow.
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Labels: dolphin gulls, gulls, kelp gulls, Magellanic oystercatchers, Puerto Williams, upland geese
Saturday, November 8, 2008