Rockhopper Blog

Counting penguins

2008-12-08T18:11:00.000-08:00

November 7, 2008
Isla Terhalten, Chile

This morning we left our sheltered cove on Isla Lennox to once again head out into the open waters and Isla Terhalten. Today the seas are much calmer and I hope to have another shot at getting on to the island. As we approached the island you could see shiny white dots that were actually the bellies of rockhopper penguins filing down the rocky cliffs, headed out to sea to forage for fish. As the boat got closer some of the penguins farther up on the rocks stopped abruptly and stared out at the boat, while others turned and scrambled back up into the grasses on the edge of the cliff. The small group that had already made it down to the water porpoised through the waves off the starboard side of the Chonos and out to sea.

Before I knew it I was wearing a life jacket and sitting in the small zodiac headed straight for the rocky cliffs of the island. When the tiny inflatable boat ran up near a low rock face Manuel effortlessly jumped onto the island and made it look easy. Now it was my turn. I climbed to the front of the zodiac, over the rope webbing protecting the boat from the sharp rocks and barnacles, and tried to scramble up onto the island. Let’s just say I was not as graceful.

My feet and hands could not get a hold on the very slippery, algae and barnacle covered rocks but luckily Manuel was able to grab my life jacket and help me to shore. Once standing upright I took off my life jacket and passed it back to the zodiac, noticing over my right shoulder that an enormous male southern sea lion was watching us from the rocks about 20 feet away. Before I could get my camera out of my pocket he slipped into the water to investigate the second launch arriving to his island. His massive head bobbed in the waves about 10 feet from the zodiac. Two female sea lions went in after him and poked their much smaller heads out of the water on either side of his.

He watched the zodiac intently as the rest of the team made their way onto the island and then lost interest and disappeared under the waves as the small zodiac headed back to the Chonos. Now that the entire team was finally on Isla Terhalten, we made the climb up into the largest of the three colonies located on the island. At the top of the cliff where the steep rocks ended and the tussock grass began, were the small group of rockhoppers that had stopped in their tracks when they first saw our boat.

They watched us closely, unsure of what to make of us. Southern rockhopper penguins in Chile breed in such remote and harsh locations such as Isla Terhalten that most have never encountered humans. Once at the base if the colony, our first matter of business is to measure out areas called plots, in order to get accurate counts of nests and eggs. Four ropes tied together to make a large rectangle designate the area in which to count, although attaching the ropes to small trees or dense clumps of tussock grass around the colony is much easier said then done.

This colony is situated on either side of a small, muddy creek bed. The mud is so thick in some areas that if you stand still for too long your boots are sucked in to the mud past your ankles. The colony is also on a hillside and climbing up the slippery rocks and fallen trees can be a recipe for a face full of mud and guano. Most importantly, you have to be very careful about where you step as to not disturb any nests or eggs. The penguins, not sure if we meant them harm, abandoned their nests and ran into the surrounding tussock grass as we entered the colony.

Luckily, the striated caracaras watching from the nearby bushes were also too afraid of us to come into the colony and steal the now unguarded eggs.

Once the ropes were in place we moved quickly through the colony counting nests and eggs and after a few minutes the rockhoppers cautiously returned to their nests. By counting the number of nests with eggs in them we can get a much more accurate idea of the total number of birds in each plot. Incubating eggs requires both parents as they have to be able to switch of between sitting on the eggs and foraging for fish. Pairs that lose their mate during the breeding season will eventually be forced to abandon their eggs to hunt for fish. Unguarded eggs are quickly taken by predatory birds, such as caracaras, that also live on these islands.

By counting nests we can assume that any nest with eggs must have two penguins. Our first plot had 141 successful nests, which means that there are probably close to 282 southern rockhopper penguins just in that 20m X 10m area. As we continued up through the colony we did 3 more plots, each with at least 100 successful nests. Around 85 percent of the nests that we counted had two eggs in them and I only saw a handful of abandoned nest sites in the 4 plot areas.

It seems that the remote location and dense vegetation of Isla Terhalten is helping to protect these penguins from pressures such as habitat encroachment and introduced predators. Unfortunately even the harshest of locations cannot protect them from the larger problems of over fishing and climate change that are pushing many species of penguins to the brink of extinction. Leaving the colony, we radioed to the Chonos to establish a new pick up location and made our way back down to the cliffs. Along the way we passed a pair of Magellanic penguins in their burrow, and an ashy headed goose guarding his nest site from on looking striated caracaras.

To get back down to the boat we had to descend down the vertical cliffs and again make the jump into the zodiac. On the left side of this photo you can see two of the Feather Link team members, Roger and Len, making their way down and get a good idea of the height of these cliffs.

Once safely back on the Chonos we hosed the mud off of our clothes and boots and went below for dinner. It’s hard to express the exhilarating feeling of being on such a wild and untouched island. This experience is something I will never forget for the rest of my life.

-Caitlin

The first attempt

2008-12-08T18:01:00.000-08:00

November 6, 2008
Isla Terhalten and Sesambre

This morning we got an early start out of Puerto Williams, heading through the eastern end of the Beagle Channel. The flat calm waters this morning are a huge change from the white out and windy conditions of yesterday, and will hopefully allow us to reach Isla Terhaltenshortly after lunch. This clear, perfect morning was great for bird watching and we saw large numbers of black browed albatrosses, juvenile giant petrels, South American terns and southern fulmars.

A black browed albatross:

A group of southern fulmars

As we came to the end of the Beagle Channel, the island of Cape Horn, or "Cabo de Hornos" in Spanish, was visible in the distance as jagged, snow covered peak. Passing in between Isla Navarino and Isla Lennox, we left the Beagle and entered into the open waters that is the beginning of the Drake Passage to Antarctica. Soon, two small islands emerged on the horizon. In this photo you can see Isla Terhalten on the right and the smaller island of Sesambre on the left:

I have seen many pictures of southern rockhopper colonies, but nothing prepared me for the severity of the landscape I was about to see. Isla Terhalten and the neighboring island of Sesambre look like something out of a prehistoric dinosaur movie. Steep, sharp cliffs tower straight out of the ocean and are met with hills of dense tussock grasses and low, twisted bushes. Hundreds of birds soar around the island on their way to and from foraging trips. Flying around the island there were large groups of imperial and rock cormorants, South American terns, and snowy sheathbills; as well as a large number of striated caracara, an endangered species in the falcon family, circling over the tussock grass looking for any exposed nests to raid.

By the time the Chonos had dropped anchor in between Terhalten and Sesambre, the wind had again started to pick up. We were finally here and ready to make our first attempt at landing on Isla Terhalten. Looking at these islands it becomes very clear why few people have been able to get actual counts of the colonies and instead have relied on estimations gathered from circling an island on board a boat. There are no beaches or smooth, shallow areas to land on, only jagged rocks covered with razor sharp barnacles and the constant pounding surf. The Feather Link research team has been one of the only groups able to get onto these formidable islands and obtain accurate counts of penguin breeding colonies. Getting on to the islands is a matter of finding a landing site where the swells are less intense along with a section of low, flat rocks to jump to. We were about to find out how difficult that task is.

While the crew lowered the small zodiac into the water, those of us going ashore changed into our rubber boots and waterproof gear. A nervous excitement came over me as I watched the first group go out in the zodiac. It was at least 20 minutes before they located an area to attempt a landing. By the way, to call it a "landing" is a bit misleading since it is really more like jumping ship than landing the zodiac on a nice sandy beach. When the zodiac pulls up to the rocky shoreline you must literally jump from the bow of the boat onto the slippery rocks. For this reason, finding the best possible landing site is key as any mistakes can end in broken bones, and we are miles from any hospital. Because the wind had picked up when we arrived, this landing was extremely difficult and once the first launch was ashore the decision was made to cancel any additional landing attempts. The first team of David, Manuel and Alejandro will have to collect the blood and feather samples alone. These samples will be analyzed in a lab once we have returned home and will help to check the overall health of the colony. Unfortunately for me I will have to wait another day to get my chance in the colony. Luckily, it was a clear, sunny day despite the wind and I was able to spend the rest of the afternoon watching the birds flying around the island and the southern sea lions sunbathing on the rocky shoreline.

After a tricky retrieval, the first team returned to the Chonos. It would be too dangerous to stay the night in the open waters surrounding Isla Terhalten and Sesambre, so tonight we head back towards the Beagle Channel and the shelter of Isla Lennox. Tomorrow we will hopefully return to the penguins.

-Caitlin

New shades of blue

2008-12-08T17:54:00.000-08:00

November 5, 2008
The Northern branch of the Beagle Channel

Just when you think you've seen some of the most incredible scenery in the world, southern Chile continues to impress. About mid way into the northern branch of the Beagle Channel the water color changes from a deep, colbalt blue to pale, misty grey. I was told that this is due to the change from a rocky to sandy sediment on the bottom of the channel.

This part of the Beagle is also known as "Glacier Alley," and although another heavy storm blew in, I was able to get a few photos before it closed in around us and everything became a wall of white.

Tonight we will dock in the southernmost town in the world, Puerto Williams, and hopefully wake up to better weather for tomorrow's voyage to Isla Terhalten.

- Caitlin

A pile of rocks

2008-12-08T17:39:00.000-08:00

November 4, 2008
Bahia Desolada, Chile

The storm that shrouded us in fog yesterday is keeping us in the sheltered cove in what's known as Bahia Desolada (Desolated Bay).

On a small boat in the southern fjords of Chile you do a lot of hiding out in the protected coves of the islands in order to wait out the ever changing and often severe weather of the more open water of the channels.

Last night we shared our little cove with two Chilean fishing boats that had also taken refuge from the storms. This time of year the fisherman are out catching king crab, or centolla in Spanish, and they happily traded a few for some much needed supplies. Although I don't eat seafood myself, the rest of the crew will get to enjoy this delicacy for dinner, fresh from the sea.

The fishing boats are small and wooden and don't have any of the high tech equipment of the Chonos, such as GPS and depth meters. Knowledge of these treacherous waters is passed down through the generations and the local fishermen know the area like you or I would know our own backyard. Hugo, our patron (or captain), spent many years as a fisherman and his knowledge of these waters well help us venture out to the furthest reaches of Tierra del Fuego later in our trip.

To keep ourselves busy while we waited for the storm to pass a few of us went ashore to explore the area. After hiking up some of the smaller hills we noticed two piles of rocks at the very top of one of the higher peaks overlooking the bay. These rock piles, called "cairns," have been built for centuries by explorers and local fisherman as a way to leave their mark on the harsh landscapes. They are unmistakably man made as no natural event could pile the rocks into such a pyramid like shape. Sometimes, explorers buried things inside the rock piles, as a way to identify themselves, things like coins, buttons and other small items from the ship. Wanting to find out if these markers contained any hidden items from past explorations, we made the climb up. As we got closer to the top it started to hail and the wind blew the little bits of ice with such a force that it turned your skin red. Climbing into the wind was also no easy task as you had to lean hard into it to avoid being blown over backwards, but when you're so close to something why turn back? The largest cairn was built with small rocks as a base and two large, rectangular rocks turned on their ends to form the top. In between the two larger rocks was a medium sized glass bottle, filled about a quarter full with what appeared to be water. Wondering who built this marker and how long it has stood in this desolated place, we took pictures quickly and tried to smile, although you could barely open your eyes with the wind and the hail pelting your face.

After a few painful minutes of picture taking, we headed back down the mountainside. From this height you can really understand how this area got its name. No trees grow on the mountains and for miles all you can see is more barren, desolated peaks and the white capped waves of the Beagle Channel. About half way down the storm finally passed and the sun came out.

Not wanting to leave such a remote place without leaving a mark of our own, we stopped to build a small cairn for new explorers to find in the years to come.

- Caitlin

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My first Chilean bird sightings.

2008-12-08T17:04:00.000-08:00

November 3, 2008
Santa Ana Bay, Chile

The view from my porthole window this morning was a beautiful snow covered peak overlooking the small bay that the Chonos had anchored in last night.

Immediately I got dressed and headed on deck to find the weather calm and warm for the region. Kelp gulls were cackling off in the distance and a pair of Magellanic penguins was bobbing along in the waves about 100 ft off the port side of the boat.

Magellanic penguins are common in the ocean waters of southern Patagonia although their lower overall numbers classify them as "near threatened" by the IUCN red list. They looked so small in the vast expanse of deep blue water and unfortunately did not stay long enough for me to get a closer look. As the boat pulled anchor and we headed out for the day, a group of black browed albatrosses glided on the wind off in the distance, their long wings alternately tipping left and right, sending them soaring up into the clouds. Mixed in with the albatrosses were a few juvenile giant petrels and Chilean skuas.

Later that day we made rounded the southern most tip of the continent of South America. The wind had picked up substantially and the large swells were tossing the boat up and down like a see-saw. Jagged snow covered mountains lined both sides of the channel, the end of the South American continent to our right side and the beginning of the islands of Tierra del Fuego to the left. Louis, our chef, called us down below for dinner and afterwards I went to my little cabin and was surprised how even the most stomach turning tossing of the boat lulls you to sleep.

After a short nap, I came back on deck to a much different scene. The storm had closed us in a dense fog as we were passing through a narrow part of the channel. The small islands and rocks world. If early explorers encountered similar conditions I could understand the fear of falling off of the end of a flat earth.

Along with the fog came rain and an increase in the winds. Gusts of 30-50 knots forced us inside the wheelhouse. A pod of Peale's dolphins appeared in the breaking waves at the bow of the boat and followed us out of the channel and into the protected cove that will be our home for the rest of the night.

-Caitlin

The lucky toe

2008-11-30T19:47:00.000-08:00

November 2, 2008
Punta Arenas, Chile.

After meeting up with the Feather Link research team in the Santiago airport we boarded the last plane that I hope to see for a while. Three hours later we arrived in Punta Arenas. The first thing that you notice when you get to Punta Arenas is the incredibly strong winds. The land is mostly “pampas” (grasslands) and there are low, wind swept trees that look a bit more like bushes than the trees we are used to in New England.

We took a taxi into town to drop our luggage off at the office of our chartered boat company and headed to a restaurant for lunch before picking up some supplies at the local grocery store. Along the way we passed a statue of Ferdinand Magellan in the town square, where legend has it that if you kiss the toe of the Ona Indian seated below Magellan you will return safely to Punta Arenas. The toe is polished to a shine from years of passing travelers, and each one of us rubbed it for good luck as we headed to the docks.

Our boat, the Chonos MV, was waiting for us and we all climbed aboard and found our sleeping quarters. My room was essentially a small closet with a sink which felt surprisingly cozy once all my things were unpacked and organized.

After being given clearance to leave by the harbor master late in the evening, we pulled out of Punta Arenas in the darkness and headed into the Straight of Magellan. Our first destination is a southern rockhopper colony located on Isla Terhalten, a small island on the southeastern end of Tierra del Fuego. There we hope to get accurate counts of the penguins and obtain blood and feather samples that will help to establish the overall health of the colony. The journey will take 3 days and take us through the temperamental waters of the Beagle channel and into the beginnings of the Drake Passage. Right now the only thing I can see through the darkness is the disappearing lights of the city of Punta Arenas, but I have a feeling that when the sun comes up tomorrow I am in for some unbelievable sights.

Buenos noches,
- Caitlin

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Buenos dias, South America

2008-11-30T19:35:00.000-08:00

November 2, 2008 6:13 a.m.
In transit

This morning I woke up on a plane somewhere north of Santiago, Chile, over the Andes mountains. You'd be surprised how quickly you forget that you've been squished into an airplane seat for 12 hours when you slide open your window and see this as your view.

This is going to an amazing adventure.

- Caitlin

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6,600 miles

2008-11-25T05:35:00.000-08:00

November 1, 2008
Logan Airport, Boston

In two hours I board the first of three planes that will take me to the southern most city in the world. Punta Arenas, Chile is just over 6,600 miles away from Boston and will be the starting point of my work with the Feather Link research team. Feather Link has been coming to southern Patagonia since 2005 in order to study southern rockhopper penguins. Southern rockhoppers breed in southern Argentina and Chile, as well as the Falkland Islands. They have been well studied in both Argentina and the Falklands, but due to the harsh conditions in the fjords and channels of southern Chile little is known about exact breeding locations and their overall population in the country.

Unfortunately, southern rockhopper penguins are listed as a species vulnerable to extinction by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) and have seen dramatic population declines of at least 30% over the last 30 years. Chile is estimated to have at least 1/3 of the remaining population of southern rockhoppers and the Feather Link researchers have found many previously unknown colonies during their work in prior years. This year we hope to seek out more undiscovered colonies and gather information that will help to secure protected breeding areas for the southern rockhopper penguin.

For me, this trip will be my first experience working in the field and my first opportunity to see penguins in the wild after many years of working with them at the New England Aquarium. "Excited" doesn't even begin to explain how thrilled I am to be on this trip and hope that the next 24 hours of traveling goes by fast, because I can't wait to get started!

See you in South America!

- Caitlin

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